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What is California Natural Cat Food made of? Why is California Natural Cat Food so healthy for your Pets?

California Natural Cat Food is made only of what is needed for a healthy diet for cats, nothing more. California Natural Cat Food is created with lean meats, essential vitamins and minerals, full meats and tasty extras.

California Natural Cat Food has balanced ingredients like herring oil and sunflower oil which have the health supplements Omega 6 and 3 fatty acids which make your cat a shiny coat and healthy skin.

California Natural Dry Cat Food combines wholesome and healthful ingredients to provide the perfect key to good health, long life and shiny coat as well as good digestion.

California Natural Cat Food? Is California Natural Cat Food Good for your Cats or Dogs?

California Natural Cat Food contains NO additives, chemical preservatives, or fillers and has a taste cats love!

Not only are most our cats fussy when it comes to eating cat food, but they also need nutrition supplements to make their coat and skin shiny and healthy. There for, California Natural Cat Food has a healthy, nutritious and tasty formula.

California Natural Canned Cat Food has the right amount of vitamins and nutrients.

California Natural Canned Cat Food uses pure protein sources to satisfy the nutritional need of your cat while providing it with a flavor your cat won’t be able to forget.

The entire line of California Natural Cat Food is made with only wholesome, natural ingredients.

Even in taste tests, California Natural Cat Food was liked best by cats over all the other leading cat foods.<strong>California Natural Herring And Sweet Potato Formula Cat Food</strong>

California natural cat food is healthy and good!

California Natural Herring and Sweet Potato Formula Cat Food provides a unique single source animal protein that will sure to please even the most selective cat. California Natural Cat Food contains 100 percent Herring and Herring Meal, used as animal protein source.

California Natural Cat Food doen’t have any ground bones, chemicals, or crap inside that could eventually make your cat sick or caus diherria.

California Natural Cat Food is all healthy, natural (as already the name says),tasty and healthy,for your cats!

Is California Natural Cat Food Good Even If My Cat Has Dietery Problems?

Yes, for california natural cat Food can meet the dietary needs of cats that cannot tolerate normal cat food ingredients. .

California Natural Cat Food is as good as anything you would demand for yourself. Pamper your cat like you’d pamper yourself!

Get it here for less: http://catlovingcare.com/california-natural-cat-food

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – California Natural Cat Food? Is California Natural Cat Food Good for your Cats or Dogs?

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Don’t you think it would be prudent to read cat food labels and determine whether it’s a bad cat food or a nutritional cat food? A cat food with any of their first five ingredients listed as a carbohydrate is bad cat food and it is harming your cat.

However, most cat owners fail to read cat food labels and as a result, you feed your cats many bad cat foods with harmful ingredients that are causing premature cat deaths.

Since most cat caregivers consider their feline friends as family members, don’t you think you should show them the same consideration? Feeding your cat bad cat food that leads to premature cat deaths is not showing love for your cat.

Cats are carnivores and their physiology demands a meat-based diet as this will closely mimic their natural diet. It’s imperative that you remember and abide by guidelines that will benefit your cat and help him/her realize their longevity. Bad cat foods will not do this but nutritional cat foods will.

Such foods as carbohydrates will damage your cats’ digestive system and cause food related diseases that will severely shorten his life. These are not nutritional cat foods but rather bad cat foods and they are the main cause of premature cat deaths

For your educational benefit as well as your cats’ lives, let’s take a look at some cat foods and examine their ingredients.

Avoderm

Use of Carbohydrates which include;

Oat Bran and Rice Flour also included is

Avocado oil and Guar gum

Oat bran is the outer husk of the oat grain – it is a carbohydrate.

Rice flour is a form of flour made from finely milled rice – another carbohydrate.

Avocado oil is oil pressed from the fruit of avocados. The fruit, leaves, bark and seeds of avocados have been reported as being toxic to cats. The toxic component in avocado is “Persin” which is a fatty acid preservative. Oat bran, rice flour, avocado oil and guar gum are all bad cat food ingredients

Eukanuba

Use of Carbohydrates which include;

Brewers Rice and Corn Grits also

includes Beef-by-Product, Dried Egg

Product, Dried Beet Pulp and Menadione

Dimethylpyrimidinol Bisulfite

Brewers rice and corn grits are starchy carbohydrates with no nutritional benefit to cats

Beef by-product is the parts of the cow other than muscle meat. It could be organs and skin. Its origin is Rendering Plants.

Dried Beet Pulp is free from crowns and leaves extracted from the process of manufacturing sugar. It’s mostly used as a filler in cat food.

Dried Egg Product – Cheap source of protein – waste product of the egg industry. It could include undeveloped eggs, shells and other tissue deemed unfit for humans. Brewers rice, corn grits, beef by-products, dried egg products, dried beet pulp and MDB are all bad cat food ingredients.

Fancy Feast

Use of a Carbohydrate; Wheat Gluten

also includes Meat by-Product and

Menadione Sodium Bisulfite

Wheat Gluten – The tough, viscid nitrogenous substance remaining when wheat is washed to remove the starch. Wheat gluten is a cheap by-product of human food processing, the starchy liquid left after washing wheat. It is used mostly to bind food together. Wheat gluten is included in a number of human food products, as well as pet foods. Contaminated wheat gluten from China has been found responsible for a large number of the reported sicknesses and death of pets from melamine toxicity.

Meat by-product – Is the product that’s derived from Rendering Plants; road-kill, and the four Ds (dead, dying, diseased, disabled) and decaying animals flesh.

I’ve already explained what menadione derivatives are.

Wheat gluten, meat by-products and MSB are all bad cat food ingredients.

Friskies

Use of Meat by-Products, Poultry

Giblets, Poultry and Bone Meal,

Vegetable Gums and Onion Salt,

I’ve already defined meat by-products earlier and we all know what poultry giblets are, correct? In case you don’t know, it’s the gizzards and hearts of chickens and turkeys provided that’s their origin but we don’t really know, they could come from buzzards as their source is not identified.

Bone Meal is another unidentified ingredient. It could come from the five Ds (dead, dying, diseased, disabled and decaying) animals that are products of Rendering Plants.

Vegetable Gum is another carbohydrate and its main purpose is a thickener or binder and it serves no nutritional purpose for cats and it could be toxic.

Onion Salt – No form of garlic or onion should be used in cat foods. Onions contain Thiosulphate which is toxic to cats.

Meat by-products, poultry giblets, poultry and bone meal, vegetable gums and onion salt are all bad cat food ingredients.

The above cat foods and their ingredients are a mere sample of what’s available as cat foods. Now that you have some information to improve you cats’ diet, use it and your cat will appreciate you taking their health into consideration.

Stop feeding your cat bad cat foods that are harming them. Stop buying bad food for your cats and lining the pockets of commercial cat food companies because they are laughing at how uninformed cat owners really are by actually purchasing the stuff they call food and feeding it to your pets.

It’s unbelievable that caring pet owners could actually create a market for bad cat food. If we don’t stop buying bad cat foods and start feeding our cats nutritional cat foods, our cats’ mortally rate will continue to skyrocket.

Since uninformed cat caregivers are the ones that created the market for bad cat food, what do you think would happen to the commercial cat food companies if suddenly cat caregivers became informed and stopped buying their bad cat foods?

They would stop making bad cat foods and begin making nutritional cat foods or go out of business.

Most cat caregivers are not that responsible. They have refused to stop buying bad cat foods and each year the commercial cat food company’s profits continue to increase. At this rate, the pet food industry will never act responsible enough to produce nutritional cat foods.

Because of convenience, cat caregivers buy bad cat foods that are loaded with toxins. A bag of dry cat food is killing your cat but do you care? Do you prefer your convenience over providing your cat with nutritional cat food?

The commercial cat food industry is banking on their research and it suggests that cat caregivers are uninformed relative to nutritional cat foods and they are more concerned with their convenience. Therefore, there is no incentive for the commercial cat food industry to produce nutritional cat foods so they will continue producing cheap and bad cat foods and you will continue buying it and they will continue laughing all the way to the banks and your cats will continue dying prematurely

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – Show Your Love for Your Cat by Feeding Him/her Nutritional Cat Foods and Avoiding Bad Cat Foods

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Most people wonder what to look for in a cat tree. As a cat tree manufacturer and a cat breeder, I would like to point out what is important to me.

Safety first:

All cat breeders know what mischief our cats are capable of. If there’s danger in your house, your cats are going to find it. Not only is the cat tree manufacturer responsible for making a well built, safe cat tree but the cat owner is responsible for using good judgement in the selection and use of it..

First, make sure the design of the cat tree does not compromise safety. Only purchase stable, well built cat trees. Beware of cat trees that are cheaply made and can collapse under the weight of your cats. You also want to purchase a cat tree that will not tip over when your cat , who has invisible wings it seems, takes a flying leap and lands on top or on the side of the tree. You have to take into account that smaller, lighter cat trees will not be as stable when used by a big, heavy cat, but even if you buy a small cat tree there are ways to test for stability. You can test your cat tree before purchase by taking it through the tip test. Tip the cat tree a bit and see if it falls over or if it rights itself (be careful if it’s a large tree, you don’t want a large tree falling on you and the store might not appreciate you knocking over all of the large trees in the place). Rock it a bit to see if it stays upright. It’s ok if the tree sways some with the movement of the cat, that’s normal, but it is not OK if the cat tree tips over easily.

If you purchase your tree from an internet website you won’t be able to put it through the tip test, but you can always ask for customer testimonials to see how other customers feel about the stability of the products you intend to buy. Be sure that there is a return policy in case the tree does not meet stability requirements, however, also be sure to read and agree to the store’s return policy before you make the purchase. Many stores will not let you return a used product so be sure to take the tip test before you let your cats use the tree.

Your cat tree should be sturdy enough to surface clean and sanitize. There are a large number of cats trees on the market that are made with cardboard tubing as the core of the structure. I don’t recommend cat trees made with cardboard because cardboard may not hold up well, especially if you surface clean your cat tree regularly with anything moist. If you have a cat tree with cardboard tubing as the main supportive structure, be sure to inspect it regularly for any weakness.

Many cat trees use toxic chemicals, dyes, and glues in the manufacturing process. It is not a good idea to use a cat tree with any of these items, particularly for cats that tend to bite at the carpeting and materials used on cat trees.

Be sure to buy a tree suitable for it’s purpose. Don’t buy a carpeted cat tree for outside unless it will be in an area protected from rain and moisture. If you keep a carpet and wood cat tree outside, even under a covered patio, moisture may still cause mold to develop on or inside of your cat tree.

For outside cat furniture, make sure that the cat house is suitable for cats. Most outdoor houses on the market are designed for dogs and not for cats, so do your homework when looking for those type of items.

Accessability:
Make sure the cat tree you intend to purchase is accessible to your cats. There are all kinds of situations that call for a really accessible cat tree. Your cats may be old, overweight, declawed, or have health issues. If you have large cats, will your cat tree be large enough to accommodate them? Will they fit into the cubby holes or house(if the cat tree has holes or houses)?

The cats also need to be able to get up and down the tree easily or they probably wont use it.

A good idea is to get a cat tree that you can purchase additional parts in case your tree needs to be more accessible. If the cat tree looks like a cat tree, can your purchase extra branch steps? If it looks like a regular, multi level structure, can your purchase more steps? It’s also a good idea to purchase some sort of ladder for cats who are declawed (I am not a supporter of declawing but should you end up with a declawed cat you need to be able to accommodate it too). Your cat trees are no good unless your cats like them and will use them, so be sure your cat tree is designed with your cat in mind. We’ve had take a second look and to improve the accessability of our cat trees over the years.

Durability:
Durability is not only an issue of getting your moneys worth but also of safety. Most mass manufactured cat trees on the market today are made with the cheapest materials possible. As stated previously, many use cardboard tubing as the main support structure. Cardboard is not very durable, especially if you clean your cat tree. All plywood has some amount of chemicals in it, however, press board and chipboard has a large amount of undesirable chemicals in it and is not as durable as plywood or solid wood.

Fabric is not as durable as carpeting, which is thicker and can stand up to cats scratching better. Of course, no carpeting is going to last forever, but you will get more bang for your buck if your cat tree is carpet covered rather then fabric covered.

Appeal:
Appeal is more important then most people think. Not only should the tree appeal to your cats but it should appeal to you and your visitors. The cat tree should be designed in a way that is attractive to your cats. If a cat tree is designed with cats in mind, usually cats will take to it instantly. Many cats are territorial, so if you have a large number of cats or territorial, cats it is recommended that you buy a large cat tree with multiple, separate spaces for each cat to claim as it’s own.

There are certain materials that most cats are attracted to. Cats like warmth and softness when sleeping and they like things they can really dig their claws into when playing. Having a cat tree that provides spaces where you can put soft, warm cat beds is always a plus, as is having a cat tree that can withstand rough play.

Next we want a cat tree that will appeal to our design and style. It does no good to spend $2000.00 on a new leather sofa and thousands on decor if you’re going to have a big, ugly, rickety cat tree sitting in the middle of your livingroom! The idea is not to detract from your decor, but to add to it. There’s no reason you should compromise your style because you have cats to please (although your cats would tell you different). If that is the case, you might as well pick up the 70’s checkerboard sofa sitting on your street corner and throw that into the living room for your cats to use as a scratching post. Of course, different people have different styles, likes and dislikes, so my idea of attractive might not be yours, but im sure you get the drift.

Finally, we come to PRICE::
It’s not true that 100% of the time if you spend less you’ll get less and if you spend more you get more, but generally speaking, you get what you pay for.

I’ll let you in on a not so secret, secret. I’m a penny pincher. I drive my family crazy. Let me tell you a story about my uh – hmmm…”penny pinching abilities”. When I was in school my father would take us to a restaurant every morning to eat breakfast before school. I’d buy the heaviest meal, and eat well every morning because I knew he’d give me $2.00 for lunch everyday. I never used the $2.00 to buy lunch. Instead, I would starve myself all day to be able to save the $2.00.

I would go home famished but never broke. I saved so much money that way that when my other family members needed to borrow money they knew I always had some to lend them. Sure, I lent them the money, but I always charged interest! So what’s the moral of my story? If you can save a buck or two, please do. That being said, I never, ever, will compromise quality to save money. I feel that if you’re compromising quality to save money, then you really haven’t saved anything, in fact, you’ve lost money because it will be just that much faster that you’ll have to replace the item. I also, never buy anything im not 100% happy with buying. I won’t settle for second best because to me, second best is money not well spent. I don’t mind getting used items, but I have to be sure that those are of good quality as well. When it comes to cat trees, it’s not a good idea to get a used cat tree unless you know the person who your getting the cat tree from and know that the cats who used the tree are disease free. There are a terrible amount of diseases and parasites that can hide in cat trees.

If you’re anything like me, and I suspect that you are since I’ve done business with probably thousands of cat breeders and pet owners, you spend inordinate amounts on your cats but nothing on yourself. I’ll wear the same pair of tennis shoes until they fall apart (husband has to sneak into the closet and get them and throw them away because he knows I will wear them till I’m waking on insole liners held together with shoelaces), but when it comes to my cats, I have to have the latest, greatest and cutest. So, if you’re like me, I feel bad for you, but at least now you know how to find a perfect cat tree for your beloved furbabies.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – Finding The Perfect Cat Tree Furniture For Your Cat, Not As Easy As You Might Think

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Most people wonder what to look for in a cat tree. As a cat tree manufacturer and a cat breeder, I would like to point out what is important to me.

Safety first:

All cat breeders know what mischief our cats are capable of. If there’s danger in your house, your cats are going to find it. Not only is the cat tree manufacturer responsible for making a well built, safe cat tree but the cat owner is responsible for using good judgement in the selection and use of it..

First, make sure the design of the cat tree does not compromise safety. Only purchase stable, well built cat trees. Beware of cat trees that are cheaply made and can collapse under the weight of your cats. You also want to purchase a cat tree that will not tip over when your cat , who has invisible wings it seems, takes a flying leap and lands on top or on the side of the tree. You have to take into account that smaller, lighter cat trees will not be as stable when used by a big, heavy cat, but even if you buy a small cat tree there are ways to test for stability. You can test your cat tree before purchase by taking it through the tip test. Tip the cat tree a bit and see if it falls over or if it rights itself (be careful if it’s a large tree, you don’t want a large tree falling on you and the store might not appreciate you knocking over all of the large trees in the place). Rock it a bit to see if it stays upright. It’s ok if the tree sways some with the movement of the cat, that’s normal, but it is not OK if the cat tree tips over easily.

If you purchase your tree from an internet website you won’t be able to put it through the tip test, but you can always ask for customer testimonials to see how other customers feel about the stability of the products you intend to buy. Be sure that there is a return policy in case the tree does not meet stability requirements, however, also be sure to read and agree to the store’s return policy before you make the purchase. Many stores will not let you return a used product so be sure to take the tip test before you let your cats use the tree.

Your cat tree should be sturdy enough to surface clean and sanitize. There are a large number of cats trees on the market that are made with cardboard tubing as the core of the structure. I don’t recommend cat trees made with cardboard because cardboard may not hold up well, especially if you surface clean your cat tree regularly with anything moist. If you have a cat tree with cardboard tubing as the main supportive structure, be sure to inspect it regularly for any weakness.

Many cat trees use toxic chemicals, dyes, and glues in the manufacturing process. It is not a good idea to use a cat tree with any of these items, particularly for cats that tend to bite at the carpeting and materials used on cat trees.

Be sure to buy a tree suitable for it’s purpose. Don’t buy a carpeted cat tree for outside unless it will be in an area protected from rain and moisture. If you keep a carpet and wood cat tree outside, even under a covered patio, moisture may still cause mold to develop on or inside of your cat tree.

For outside cat furniture, make sure that the cat house is suitable for cats. Most outdoor houses on the market are designed for dogs and not for cats, so do your homework when looking for those type of items.

Now for owner responsibility in the use and placement of the cat tree. As the owner it is important that you use good judgement when finding a suitable spot for your cat tree. Don’t put your cat tree in any area that cats might get hurt jumping down from the tree or if they should fall from the tree, particularly if the tree is very tall. One time someone reported that they placed a tall cat tree at the top of 3 flights of stairs. The stairs were open all the way to the basement. For unknown reasons the cat fell from the top of the tree and fell down three flights of stairs, landing on the basement steps. I’m happy to report that there were no serious injuries, but this was a lesson learned for that poor cat owner who chose the wrong spot for her cat tree!

My own cats spy their 6 foot cat tree from the 10 foot balcony in my house wanting to jump all the way over to the cat tree. My husband thought about putting the cat tree under the balcony so they could get onto the top of the cat tree from there. I thought it was not a wise idea because I did not want to encourage my cats to play balancing acts on the balcony rail, and if we ever moved the cat tree they might still think that they can play on the balcony. Instead, I keep the cat tree on the other side of the room and reprimand my cats when they get on the balcony. I plan on putting patio netting over the front of the balcony to keep them off.

There are other hidden dangers that the cat owner needs to beware of. Some cat trees are very large and heavy. You want to be sure that you keep large dogs and children away from and off off your cat trees. Large dogs might be able to tip over the cat tree and children like to climb on them and they might fall from the tree or knock them down on top of themselves. Make it clear to your human children and your non feline furry children that it is NOT OK to play on or around the cat tree.

Dangling toys can also be a huge hazzard for playful cats. I heard a report about an accident from a person tying a long, thin bungee type of toy to a cat tree. When the owner was out of the room the cat hung herself on the bungee cord. The owner came back into the room just in time to save the cat! If you want to put a danging toy on your cat tree, make sure it is not long enough for the cat to wrap around it’s neck.. Bungee type of toys can be particularly dangerous because they stretch.

You want to be cautious about any toy that is hanging from anywhere, be it doorknob or cat tree.

Finally, don’t do anything stupid like put a tv set on top of the cat tree trunk. It sounds really off the wall but I have heard of really strange uses for cat trees.

Accessability:

Make sure the cat tree you intend to purchase is accessible to your cats. There are all kinds of situations that call for a really accessible cat tree. Your cats may be old, overweight, declawed, or have health issues. If you have large cats, will your cat tree be large enough to accommodate them? Will they fit into the cubby holes or house(if the cat tree has holes or houses)?

The cats also need to be able to get up and down the tree easily or they probably wont use it.

A good idea is to get a cat tree that you can purchase additional parts in case your tree needs to be more accessible. If the cat tree looks like a cat tree, can your purchase extra branch steps? If it looks like a regular, multi level structure, can your purchase more steps? It’s also a good idea to purchase some sort of ladder for cats who are declawed (I am not a supporter of declawing but should you end up with a declawed cat you need to be able to accommodate it too). Your cat trees are no good unless your cats like them and will use them, so be sure your cat tree is designed with your cat in mind. We’ve had take a second look and to improve the accessability of our cat trees over the years.

Durability:

Durability is not only an issue of getting your moneys worth but also of safety. Most mass manufactured cat trees on the market today are made with the cheapest materials possible. As stated previously, many use cardboard tubing as the main support structure. Cardboard is not very durable, especially if you clean your cat tree. All plywood has some amount of chemicals in it, however, press board and chipboard has a large amount of undesirable chemicals in it and is not as durable as plywood or solid wood.

Fabric is not as durable as carpeting, which is thicker and can stand up to cats scratching better. Of course, no carpeting is going to last forever, but you will get more bang for your buck if your cat tree is carpet covered rather then fabric covered.

Appeal:

Appeal is more important then most people think. Not only should the tree appeal to your cats but it should appeal to you and your visitors. The cat tree should be designed in a way that is attractive to your cats. If a cat tree is designed with cats in mind, usually cats will take to it instantly. Many cats are territorial, so if you have a large number of cats or territorial, cats it is recommended that you buy a large cat tree with multiple, separate spaces for each cat to claim as it’s own.

There are certain materials that most cats are attracted to. Cats like warmth and softness when sleeping and they like things they can really dig their claws into when playing. Having a cat tree that provides spaces where you can put soft, warm cat beds is always a plus, as is having a cat tree that can withstand rough play.

Next we want a cat tree that will appeal to our design and style. It does no good to spend $2000.00 on a new leather sofa and thousands on decor if you’re going to have a big, ugly, rickety cat tree sitting in the middle of your livingroom! The idea is not to detract from your decor, but to add to it. There’s no reason you should compromise your style because you have cats to please (although your cats would tell you different). If that is the case, you might as well pick up the 70’s checkerboard sofa sitting on your street corner and throw that into the living room for your cats to use as a scratching post. Of course, different people have different styles, likes and dislikes, so my idea of attractive might not be yours, but im sure you get the drift.

Finally, we come to PRICE::

It’s not true that 100% of the time if you spend less you’ll get less and if you spend more you get more, but generally speaking, you get what you pay for.

I’ll let you in on a not so secret, secret. I’m a penny pincher. I drive my family crazy. Let me tell you a story about my uh – hmmm…”penny pinching abilities”. When I was in school my father would take us to a restaurant every morning to eat breakfast before school. I’d buy the heaviest meal, and eat well every morning because I knew he’d give me $2.00 for lunch everyday. I never used the $2.00 to buy lunch. Instead, I would starve myself all day to be able to save the $2.00.I would go home famished but never broke. I saved so much money that way that when my other family members needed to borrow money they knew I always had some to lend them. Sure, I lent them the money, but I always charged interest! So what’s the moral of my story? If you can save a buck or two, please do. That being said, I never, ever, will compromise quality to save money. I feel that if you’re compromising quality to save money, then you really haven’t saved anything, in fact, you’ve lost money because it will be just that much faster that you’ll have to replace the item. I also, never buy anything im not 100% happy with buying. I won’t settle for second best because to me, second best is money not well spent. I don’t mind getting used items, but I have to be sure that those are of good quality as well. When it comes to cat trees, it’s not a good idea to get a used cat tree unless you know the person who your getting the cat tree from and know that the cats who used the tree are disease free. There are a terrible amount of diseases and parasites that can hide in cat trees.

If you’re anything like me, and I suspect that you are since I’ve done business with probably thousands of cat breeders and pet owners, you spend inordinate amounts of your cats but nothing on yourself. I’ll wear the same pair of tennis shoes until they fall apart (husband has to sneak into the closet and get them and throw them away because he knows I will wear them till I’m waking on insole liners held together with shoelaces), but when it comes to my cats, I have to have the latest, greatest and cutest. So, if you’re like me, I feel bad for you, but at least now you know how to find a perfect cat tree for your beloved furbabies.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – Finding the Perfect Cat Tree for your Cat, not as Easy as you Might Think

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Brushing and combing your cat

Cats spend 10 percent of their waking hours grooming themselves by licking dirt and excess fur of their coat but this is not enough to properly keep them clean and some cats do not clean themselves properly. You should brush and comb your cat on a regular basis. Short-hair cats are much easier to groom than long-hair cats. If you are unsure of what your cat is, visit the breeds section. When you are grooming your cat you should be alert and checking for fleas, scars, wounds and lumps.

The first thing you need to know is the difference between a cat comb and a cat brush. A cat comb is used to remove excess hair, remove knots and to remove dirt. A cat brush is to fluff up the fur and make it smooth and look good. If you own long-hair cat I would recommend buying both a comb and a brush as you will learn later on, if you own a short-hair cat it is not as important but you can if you want.

You could alternatively choose to buy a cat grooming kit which includes a comb, brush and everything else you need. You can buy the right equipment from your local pet shop but you could also consider buying online. There are many different combs and brushes to choose from and all of them have their advantages and disadvantages. If you want to get the best results and not spend a fortune you should buy a wide toothed comb, a brush and a flea comb. This should all cost under $10 USD.

It is a waste of time brushing your cat with a normal comb/brush. The advantages of using a cat brush is that it shelters the natural body oils, the bristles gently remove tangles and after brushing your cat it will have a shiny, good looking and healthy coat. But most importantly it is designed to remove excess hair, then in future when your cat cleans itself it does not swallow as much hair, preventing it from having a hairball.

If you have a kitten, it should be brushed from an early age so it becomes accustomed to the process and doesn’t find it a scary and distressing experience. It will enjoy the grooming procedure but most of all you will not have to train it later on in its life. If you have an adult cat that does not like to be brushed and finds the experience frightening, introduce grooming slowly and do not make the sessions more than five minutes. If this does not work you could try ending the grooming session with playtime so your cat will look forward to it each day. One of the most important things to remember is that a short session each day is better than a long session each week.

As I briefly mentioned before, short hair cats are easier to groom than long-hair cats, it is a bit more difficult and the process can take a bit longer. If you own a short-hair cat you should groom it on a weekly basis or every few days and it should take from 5 to 10 minutes. If you own a long-hair cat grooming should be done everyday or every two days and it should take about 10 to 20 minutes. By now you are probably thinking ‘how can you brush a cat for 20 minutes’. The grooming process is not just brushing but is also cleaning nose and ears if necessary and sometimes brushing your cat’s teeth. For more information about these, read on.

To groom your cat, follow these easy steps:

-Place your cat on a bench or table. It depends on what your cat is most comfortable with; some owners brush their cat on their laps.

-Gently brush from head to tale using short and gentle strokes with your comb to remove knots, do not pull hard otherwise it will hurt and distress your cat, making the experience unpleasant and enjoyable. For best results also brush under its neck and stomach. If you have a flea comb, brush again from head to tale.

-Use a brush to fluff up the fur, if you are unsure of what brush to use ask your local pet shop. A cat brush is good for your cat’s appearance and health and can be brought from a number of different places.

Bathing your cat

It is not necessary to bath your cat unless it becomes very dirty. Most people who have prize-winning cats bath their cat on a regular basis. Many cats do not like water and find a bath a frightening and traumatic experience. If you ever need to bath your cat, the below information will tell you how. The first thing you need to do is to brush your cat to remove excess hair and dirt. Talk to your cat with relaxed voice to keep it as calm as possible and do no make quick movements. Have everything ready before you start which should consist of 4-6 towels, shampoo, a hair dryer and cotton balls. You can use special cat shampoo or you can use regular shampoo but it really doesn’t make a difference.

Use cotton balls to protect water from getting into your cats ears. If your cat has smaller ears use only half or even a quarter. If you have a bathroom or laundry hose, use it because it makes it much easier. If you don’t have a hose use a cup or plastic container. You should not wear good clothes because the chances are that you will end up as wet as your cat. Wash your cat in a bath or a laundry sink. Start by wetting it with warm water. Avoid wetting its eyes and ears as much as possible unless it particularly dirty.

Hold your cat firmly because it will try to escape and probably bite and scratch you. Once the cat is wet apply shampoo and gently massage. If your cat is really dirty you can shampoo twice. Rinse your cat from top to bottom and make sure you get all of the shampoo out. Use the towels to dry your cat as best as you can then finish the job off with a hairdryer.

Cleaning your cats ears

Cleaning your cat’s ears should be a part of your grooming routine. To get rid of the dirt and wax, use a cotton swab but never go deeper than you can see because it can cause permanent damage to your cats hearing. It should be done every month.

Dental Care

Many people do not brush their cats teeth often enough, some have never done it. If your cat’s teeth are not brushed, bacteria will build up and could result in loss of teeth. You should brush your cat’s teeth every week. If you have a kitten you should start brushing when all of its 36 teeth have grown which is around 6 months of age. If you have an adult cat, introduce slowly and keep the sessions short.

You can buy special toothbrushes designed for cats but a child’s toothbrush will be just as good, just make sure the bristles are soft so they do not cut the gums. Do not use normal toothpaste because it will cause digestive problems and make your cat sick. You can buy special cat toothpaste from your pet shop, vet or online.

To properly brush your cat’s teeth start by gently brushing the outer surface of the teeth. Do not brush the inside of the teeth until your cat is used to the process. Brush in a circular motion from the bottom of the gum to the tips of the teeth. Some cats require professional cleaning when there is a severe build up of tartar. When brushing your cat’s teeth note the condition of your cat’s gums.

Consult your vet if the gums are swollen, if there is any bleeding, bad breath, drooling, dark spots, sores, refusal to open mouth or reluctance to eat. If your cat has any of these symptoms there is a chance that it has gum disease. Gum disease is common in cats and can be fatal unless treated. It begins with the build up of plaque and tartar which causes the roots to become infected. This can be prevented by regular brushing.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – A Detailed Guide to Grooming your Cat

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Cat Food dishes are a very common and easily found cat food item. Yet sometimes, if there isn’t a shop in your near you might have to go online to find the right cat food dish. In which case you should first compare a few different cat food dishes and cat food bowls before desiding for one spesific cat food bowl.

You can also compare prices for your cat food dish in a few different shops, but mostly the prices for cat food dishes will be the same, since it’s such a low priced item any way…..

All cats need to eat from something and of course if you have a cat you will need to have a cat food dish or food bowl. There are the most common kinds of cat food dishes such as plastic food dish for cats, stainless steal cat food dish and a ceramic or porcelan cat food bowl.

Compare these three most common cat food dishes and cat food bowls to find which one is the right one for your cat!

There are three common kinds of cat food bowls and cat food dishes:

1. A ceramic or porcelan cat food dish
2. A plastic cat food bowl
3. A stainless steel cat food dish

A Ceramic or Porcelan Cat Food Dish

A lot of ceramic and porcelan cat food dishes are very beautifully decorated. Ceramic Cat food dishes are heavier then other cat food dishes and wont fall over if thrown around. However if you buy a fancy painted cat food bowl, make sure that it is marked “safe for food”. Some fancy, decorated and beautiful cat food dishes contain lead in the paint or glaze (or other things), which is poisonous when eaten by humans or pets. Usually if the food dishes are safe for people to use, then they will probably be safe for your cat.

Just check to make sure!

Plastic Cat Food Bowl – safe or not?

Plastic cat food bowls are commonly sold in pet supply stores and are easy to clean, can not be broken and are usually very cheap too.

Nevertheless, plastic cat food dishes are not highly recommended.
They tend to get scratched easily and could house bacteria that will make your cat or kitten sick.

The plastic cat food dishes also get slime on the sides and that can caus serious problems for your cat and for you too.

Our cats like to play with any water dish or cat food dish and fling them across the floor causing a lot of mess and water. There for plastic bowls aren’t recommended since they are easier to fling and knock over and can really caus a big mess!

WARNING: Sometimes, a very cheap plastic cat food dish might come with a very sharp edge that could perhaps cut your cats lips or skin. Therefor check any plastic cat food dishes before buying any cat food dish or bowl.

Stainless Steel Cat Food Bowls:

Stainless steel bowls are solled almost everywhere. Stainless steal cat food bowls are dishwasher safe and sturdy. However there are some minuses to consider before buying any stainless steal cat food dish….

Some people think that stainless steel cat food bowls are not a good choice either since they give the cat food a bad metallic taste. Although I never had a bad experience with steal cat food dishes, (since I have never bought a stainless steal cat food dish for my cats) I can imagine that it probably would have the same affect as our steal pott that made us sick!

However since i personly have not tried it, you could give it a go if you wanted to!

3 Cat Food Bowl Tips:

1. Whatever type of dishes you purchase, make sure they are washed out and refilled every day with clean fresh water.

2. Use a wet sponge to rub the sides and corners of the cat food dish to make sure that no bacterias and slime are growing there.

3. TIP: When you choose any cat food dishes for your cat, buy something that is sturdy, dishwasher safe and made of metal or ceramic that wont brake if your cat/s knock it over and wont make the cats food taste bad!

For lots more information on cats and kittens visit my blog: http://catlovingcare.com

Thanks for reading!

CatsCamille

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – Which Cat Food Bowls and Cat Food Dishes are safe for your Cats to eat from?

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[1] Make sure that the Water Temperature is right for Bathing Cat.

The water should be luke-warm when going to bathe cat, more on the room-temperature side, because if you put hot water on your cat, it will get burned.
Cold water is always a better solution for bathing cats or kittens. Cats don’t mind the cold. Unlike myself.

Yet water should not be tooo cold when bathing a cat-  you know what I mean – not so freezing cold that your poor cat shakes and its teeth chatter… Just pleasantly luke-warm, like for a baby bath.

[2] What Should You Bathe Cat In?

Choose a shallow bathing tub that your cat can easily stand in. Deep buckets might cause cats to panic and feel as though they’re stuck in a narrow clastrophobic well.

Best would be a shallow plastic container or a small laundry bucket, that is safe for cats and not slippery.

We plan on introducing our cats to water in a gradual way and not throw them into a 6 foot/2m pool and have them get a heart attack from fright.

Place a towel around the dish so that your cat can stand on it afterwards and get dry. Also the towel aroung the cat bath will prevent your house from drowning under water. ;-D

You can also use a rubber mat for the bath bottom, so the cat won’t slip, but it isn’t a ” must have “.

If it’s a slippery tray, then the rubber mat is advisable, but if it is a plastic dish, then you don’t need to worry about it. Anyway, it’s a shallow cat bath so there is no risk.

[3] How Deep Should The Cat Bath Waters Be?

Start bathing your cat with just enough water to be above cats  feet.

For the time bathing kittens or washing cats, just place your cat in the tub and let cat play around in there. Cats will get used to the bath and think it is fun.

Tips For Playing With Your Cat In The Tub:

If you play with your cat inside the cats bath with a string, or with some other toy  your cat will enjoy bathing and want to get in there again.

Make it the place where you play with your cat with a certain item (like a mouse on a string or some kind of “cat bathing” toy.) you only use in bath. Your cat will be glad to jump in there and want to play with you.

Another cat bathing motivator is giving your cat a few yummy cat treats when he baths.

Next Stages Of Cat In The Tub

Don’t worry if your cat makes a mess. The towels  you places around the bath tub will mop up most of it.

Gradually you can begin to increase the depth of the water.

Beware: For most cat types, water should never be deeper than cat’s knees.

This should be enough water to give your cat a bath, without creating the fear of drowning panic in your cat’s mind.

How to wash your cat in the cat bath?

Don’t pour the water over your cat or dunk her inside, instead use a wet cloth and dab your cat with it over his or her fur while paying with it in the bath.

Some cats are amazingly expert swimmers, maybe you will have the next “swimming champion”, but don’t push your cat to be one…

For more information visit CatCamille’s website: http://catlovingcare.com

Good luck bathing your cat!

Catscamille

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – How to bath cat? Is bathing a cat difficult? Washing cat and bathing cat revealed here!

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5. Killing fleas and Ticks on cats? How to kill fleas and get rid of fleas and ticks on cats?

   If you are sure your cat has fleas and ticks, then you need to treat your house: # Most importantly, if you have just discovered the fleas and ticks on...

# Most importantly, if you have just discovered the fleas and ticks on cats, then quarantine your cat to one room. Hopefully you will soon be killing fleas and tick quickly and you will soon see your little kitty cat again.

This must be done(unless too late already)so that all cat fleas and ticks will hopefully stay in one room and you wont have a complete flea infestation.

# Vacuum the whole house to get rid of any fleas and ticks on the floors or furniture. They often like to hide in all kinds of places.

# Make sure to wash and disinfect all your clothes in case any fleas or ticks are hiding inside of them, as they often do. Also, you may want to spray your clothes in case fleas have planted their flea larvae inside.

# Next, shake all rugs, if you have any, and vacuum them as well.

# You can also use a flea and tick control spray to get rid of any fleas and ticks on your cat and house. The flea and tick spray to kill any hidding fleas and ticks.

# Make sure to wash your bedroom and other rooms very well too. Any closets or wardrobes must be thoroughly washed and checked.

How to get rid of fleas and ticks on your cat:

# First of all, wash your cat in an “anti flea bath.” This often means you will have to wash your cat in a bathtub with water and flea shampoo.

# Be very careful that the soap and water doesn’t go in your cats eyes. Cats naturally hate water and being bathed so most people who don’t know how to bath a cat will most likely encounter serious difficulty with this step.

To avoid having problems when bathing a cat, I recommend you to read more on how to bath a cat here: http://twitpwr.com/howtowashyourcat/
Or here: http://catlovingcare.com/

# After drying your little cat with a towl, sitt your cat down between your legs and start the work of combing the ticks out. First tackle one half of its hairs before brushing through to remove the fleas and ticks from the other half. Brush slowly and regularly, trying not to pull out any hairs. If there still are some consistent ticks, then use a pair of pincers to pull them out!

# When pulling ticks out of your cats furr, you must be very careful to avoid leaving the head of the tick inside, as this will cause infections, some of them deadly.

# When pulling out a tick, take a lighter and hold it near her or his fur.
Beware to part his or her fur BEFORE lighting the lighter. When the fire comes near the tick, it will roll up and be easy to remove.
WARNING: Be very CAREFUL when using this method of killing fleas and ticks! Sometimes a better option is to search online for a flea and tick remover for example tick twister.

# Make sure to buy a cat flea and tick control. This is needed to be sure that after your hard work killing fleas and ticks on your cat, the fleas and ticks don’t come back again. you can find all kinds of good flea and tick control here: http://squidoo.com/frontline-plus-flea-control-for-cats
Frontline is my personal favorite.

If you get a flea and tick shampoo or treatment online, check the fur every few days to be sure the fleas or ticks are gone. If you do see more fleas or ticks, quarantine your pet, and begin the whole process again.

Hope this will help you quickly start killing fleas and ticks and get rid of fleas and ticks on your pets for good!

Greetings,
your friend Cat camille – known published author’, article_summary = ‘Is killing Cat Fleas and Ticks easy? How can i get rid of fleas and ticks affordably? Learn here how to kill fleas and ticks on cats and in your home in only a few easy steps! Start killing fleas and ticks on cats and humans today->’, article_authorinfo = ‘Camille, a published author from CatLovingCare.com. is here to share with you all kinds of good deals and cat tips. From her professional cat experience, she there for knows a lot about cats and can help you with her knowledge too. She loves sharing tips, tricks and other useful information all around cats and is always willing to help answer a question. Visit her on http://catlovingcare.com or ask her a question. She will be sure to answer you as fast as possible! Cat- Camille’

If your cat has fleas and ticks, then you need to start killing fleas in your house:

# Most importantly, if you have just discovered the fleas and ticks on cats, then quarantine your cat to one room.

Hopefully you will soon be killing fleas and tick quickly and you will soon see your little kitty cat again.
This must be done(unless too late already)so that all cat fleas and ticks will hopefully stay in one room and you wont have a complete flea infestation.

# Vacuum the whole house to get rid of any fleas and ticks on the floors or furniture. They often like to hide in all kinds of places.

# Make sure to wash and disinfect all your clothes in case any fleas or ticks are hiding inside of them, as they often do. Also, you may want to spray your clothes in case fleas have planted their flea larvae inside.

# Next, shake all rugs, if you have any, and vacuum them as well.

# You can also use a flea and tick control spray to get rid of any fleas and ticks on your cat and house. The flea and tick spray to kill any hidding fleas and ticks.

# Make sure to wash your bedroom and other rooms very well too. Any closets or wardrobes must be thoroughly washed and checked.

How to get rid of fleas and ticks on your cat:

# First of all, wash your cat in an “anti flea bath.” This often means you willhave to wash your cat in a bathtub with water and flea shampoo.

# Be very careful that the soap and water doesn’t go in your cats eyes. Cats naturally hate water and being bathed so most people who don’t know how to bath a cat will most likely encounter serious difficulty with this step.

To avoid having problems when bathing a cat, I recommend you to read more on how to bath a cat here: http://twitpwr.com/howtowashyourcat/

# After drying your little cat with a towl, sitt your cat down between your legs and start the work of combing the ticks out.

First tackle one half of its hairs before brushing through to remove the fleas and ticks from the other half. Brush slowly and regularly, trying not to pull out any hairs.

If there are still some consistent ticks, then use a pair of pincers to pull them out!

# When pulling ticks out of your cats furr, you must be very careful to avoid leaving the head of the tick inside, as this will cause infections, some of them deadly.

# When pulling out a tick, take a lighter and hold it near the or his fur.
Beware to part his or her fur BEFORE lighting the lighter.
When the fire comes near the tick, it will roll up and be easy to remove.

WARNING: Be very CAREFUL when using this method of killing fleas and ticks!

# Make sure to buy a cat flea and tick control. This is needed to be sure that after your hard work killing fleas and ticks on your cat, the fleas and ticks don’t come back again.

You can find all kinds of good flea and tick control here: http://catlovingcare.com

Frontline Plus for cats is my personal favorite. read why…

#In the case that you buy a flea and tick shampoo or treatment online, check the fur of your cat every few days to be sure the fleas or ticks are gone.

If you do see more fleas or ticks, quarantine your cat, and begin the whole process again.

Hope this will help you quickly start killing fleas and ticks and get rid of fleas and ticks on your pets for good!

Greetings,

Your friend Cat Camille – known published author

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – Killing fleas and Ticks on cats? How to kill fleas and get rid of fleas and ticks on cats?

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So how does such mutation as long hair appear in a domestic cat? None of its wild counterparts has long hair gene. Well, if only lynx and snow leopard have a slightly longer coat due to the environmental conditions of their habitat.

It’s rather difficult now to investigate the origins of the long-haired cats, but most probably they are rooted in Persia, which is now called Iran. That’s from where Pietro della Valle brought several long-haired cat beauties to Italy in 1620. And a few years later the scholar and naturalist Nicolas-Claude Fabri de Peiresc brought long-haired cats form Angora (now Ankara in Turkey) to France. When the first long-haired cats appeared in England (which is now called ‘the second motherland of the Persian cats) they were called ‘French cats’.

It’s not exactly known whether those were the cats of one and the same breed. Nowadays it is the recognized fact that there existed several breeds of long-haired cats in the East. Angora cats were described as fluffy, light and active animals of a medium size, while well-known Alfred Edmund Brehm described long-haired Angora cats as big-sized and clumsy cats. He as well noted that grey and blue Angora cats were observed in the South of Siberia.

It’s not easy to answer the question why the animal from hot Asian counties has got long hair, while Mother Nature usually gifted long-hair to animals from severe Northern countries.

There are several versions regarding the long-haired cats origin. Some believe that among the ancestors of the Persian cat breed there were long-haired cats form Siberia which at first got into East and Small Asia, and only then were brought to Western Europe.

Others believe that long hair was a mutation which happened to a short-haired cat in the East, which then was kept in the process of domestication and some sort of selection – thus the cats which got into Europe and Siberia were aborigineous to Eastern countries.

The third theory roots in the phenotypic differences between the Persian cats and other domestic cats. This theory suggests that massive stocky with the ears set wide, big round head are related to Pallas’ Cat ( Felis manul ) otherwise known as Manul – wild cat which lives in Central Asia and has comparatively long hair, flat face with round eyes and ears set low on the head. Recent research however refutes this theory.

Such are the different Persian cat origin theories but anyway, all of them are pointing to Iran, Turkey and Afghanistan as the Persian cat native lands.

England is rightfully called the second Motherland of the Persian cats, as it were British cat fanciers who started to purposefully breed cat breeds (and primarily – Persian cat breed) in the 19th century. Although that was the time when the long-haired cats started being differentiated into Turkish Angora (long flexible body, silky but less thick coat, big pointed ears) and Persian cats (massive, with big round head and small ears), as a matter of fact only blue cats of the latter were called Persian, and all the rest were simply called ‘long-haired’ cats. Every of about 50 colors of long-haired cats was considered to be a separate breed. Till nowadays the Persian cat in England is not in fact called ‘Persian’ but rather ‘long-haired’, and every color variation is attributed to a separate cat breed. Also the official ruling of the British cat fanciers club regarding this issue was issued as early as 1910, the Englishmen still follow this kind of breed distinction.

The Persian cats arrived into America in the eighties of the 19th century and soon became a very popular cat breed. Unlike British clubs, in America all the color variations of the long-haired cats were attributed to one cat breed – “the Persian cat”. There are lots of color variations for Persian cats but Persian show cats are limited to the following colors: solid color, shaded and smoke, tabby, particolor, bicolor.

For today we know about 150 variations of the persian cat breed and contemporary persian cat, due to the efforts of many breeders, is a work of art among the other cat breeds. New age Persian cats are quite different form their ancestors. The Persian cats of the ‘old type’ had a narrower face, the color variations were not so rich and the coat was not so thick and delightful. Contemporary Persian cat might have its coat as long as 10 centimeters. One could say that the contemporary persian cat is the result of selective breeding by cat breeders from different countries. Probably due to that fact there are several Persian breed standards and some of the traits are still not agreed upon.

For one, starting form the middle of the 20th century, American cat breeders’s efforts were aimed at reinforcing traits peculiar to Persian breed – they were trying to breed a cat with even more massive, short body, even more round head and flat muzzle. As a result a new variation – Extreme Persian (or Peeked Faced Persian) – emerged. The first kittens of that type were born to red and red tabby persians in 1920-s. Although veterinarians believe that extreme manifestation of such traits is harmful to the animals health (specifically affecting their sinuses and breathing), and the despite the fact that British cat fanciers stand against such breeding, extreme persians are extremely popular in America and many European countries.

Contemporary persian cat became progenitor to a new breed – Exotic cat – a short-haired cat breed which has all the traits specific for the Persian cat breed with the exception of the coat length. Exotic cat is a hybrid with adorable temperament and excellent physical condition. The breed was created by American cat breeders in 1960-s. FIFe (Federation Internationale Feline) recognized the Exotic cat breed in 1984. Short (though longer than with other short-haired cat breeds) but awesome sparkly coat of the Exotic cat does not cause any problems with grooming.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – Persian Cat Breed Origin

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